12 November 2015

GIVENCHY SS16 READY-TO-WEAR NYFW

On the 14th anniversary of 9/11, Ricardo Tisci brought his Givenchy collection to New York. The runway set was created using debris and recycled materials, so it could be assembled and demolished with no waste. The designs were 'sensitive' and 'delicate'. Understandably, creating a contrast of both spring/summer seasonal appropriation and respect for a such a tragic moment in time, was never going to be a simple task. The collection was a completely monochrome palette, with almost every garment featuring a different weave of lace. It included a mix of womenswear, menswear and an innovative approach to haute couture - the use of media within the collection was mainly use of lace and leather. The leather hardened the soft exterior of the delicate lace, a good example being leather leggings under a sheer lace ball gown. The womenswear was a beautiful combination of modern tailoring with a sheer mesh, to add a hint of seductiveness to the garments.




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12 October 2015

CHANEL SPRING SUMMER 2016 READY TO WEAR

Fashion is famous for it's global destinations, and Chanel makes no exception - from Moscow to Seoul to Salzburg to Dallas; the house has presented a show in all of them. It was the season of travel and technology at Chanel last week in Paris. The show was opened by Edie Campbell rushing to his no doubt glamourous destination down Chanel's runway in a checkered tweed jumpsuit whilst rolling a black Chanel suitcase. Chanel branded luggage trollies, smiling staff behind check-in desks, transformed Paris' Grand Palais into it's very own exclusive Chanel airport. 'A first class affair'. Classic Chanel trademarked tweed skirt suits were hurried down the catwalk by Karl's line up of classic beauties. Some were pencil skirts, dropped shoulder jackets and three quarter sleeve jackets, others donned trackpants, knitted skirts and sweater ensembles. Airport fashion has always been a desirable look, however the hustle and bustle of an airport makes the reality of that very unrealistic, but these outfits would most definitely get these models a one way ticket to first class, as Karl said, 'it's how it should be!'. There was lots of layering within the collection, which has always been one of the most important tips for airport fashion, that, and not being able to fit a weeks worth of clothes into your luggage. Come fly with Chanel? Yes please.







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7 October 2015

PRADA SPRING 2016 READY TO WEAR

Modern retro-chic. Like many of the collections I've been posting about, the collection featured many conservative pieces including the power suit, boxy jackets and drop waist dresses, however they all had a modern take on them. Art-deco/space-age vibes were inserted in these clean everyday aesthetics. The models had robotic metallic lips and scooped back futuristic cosmic 'do's' with squared off and slicked down sides. Yokes and bibs on dresses were replaced by plastic fishnet disks, maximalism is back.





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1 October 2015

BURBERRY PRORSUM SPRING 2016 READY TO WEAR

FUNCTIONREGALIA is the name of the Burberry prorsum show that took place in Hyde Park during London Fashion Week. Burberry upped their tech game this season by releasing almost the entirety of the collection by 7pm the previous night on an app no other than Snapchat. The nation was blessed with watching the beautiful collection from the comfort of their own home on one of the most popular social media platforms. Sephora streamed the first ever live beauty tutorial on YouTube. Feminine shapes took to the catwalk gliding past familiar front row faces, including Burberry girls, Kate Moss, Cara Delevigne, Suki Waterhouse and Jourdan Dunn. Modern urbanities will be craving those oyster silk slip dresses suspended by spindly spaghetti straps with the famous Burberry trench coats casually thrown over. The trench coat will take a girl anywhere, even through to autumn with a trusty knit underneath. The collection showcased an array of pretty dresses like the intricate and flirty sheer mini's in black, yellow and mint.







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TOPSHOP UNIQUE SPRING 2016 READY TO WEAR

Topshop Unique is one of LFW main highlights and with the likes of Cara Delevigne, Bella Hadid and Zayn Malik in the frow, along with a live stream to Topshop.com, the show was sure to be a hit. Topshop proved that manish suits and crucial styling are key, a skinny belt tied around some trusty tailoring and big 80's hair will not go unnoticed. The show featured a palette of pastels, rich red and monochrome ensemble's. Frilly blouses and flowing tea dresses with thigh high splits advertised feisty leopard print and 60's polka dots. They were topped with bomber jackets and chunky knits, red leather skirts and a pink leather coat also made an appearance. Fluffy scarves and shoes, and even daytime pyjamas inspired by the Japanese were flaunted, although they are trends most likely to not be leaving the catwalk.







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21 September 2015

DKNY SPRING 2016 READY-TO-WEAR

Two words - monochrome and suits. Hosted in the Westfield World Trade Centre West Gallery, Donna Karan watched dependably from the audience, after giving up her role as founder of one of the greatest fashion houses in history to Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne. Aware of their need to fill the shoes of a woman with such great respect, the Public School graduates delivered with a certain level of sophistication. Tailoring was of the essence, the first look perfectly summed up the modern collection that would follow - a classy pin stripe suit jacket over a crisp white playsuit. The elegant legginess toned out the masculine vibe from the mens classic wardrobe staple. The pair said: "We wanted to explore the idea of the working woman, specifically in the setting of the city. Starting with a hyper contextualized idea of tailoring in the workplace but stripping it down and pairing it with the ease of classic American sportswear." And they couldn't have said it better. The focus was tailoring, but the construction and manipulation of the garments was what really made the collection what it was. The bottom half of a jacket or a pin-striped knit was sliced off to reveal beautiful a crisp white fabric. The collection was perfect for the modernised working woman in the city.








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16 September 2015

CAROLINA HERRERA SPRING 2016 READY TO WEAR

To my delight Carolina Herrera's Spring 2016 collection rightfully claimed it's place in the Frick museum's garden room on the Upper East Side - making it the first collection to ever be showcased among many artistic masterpieces. The modern minded designer has embraced high tech materials stitched onto transparent mesh, creating a whole new meaning of discreet, but other pieces sported a higher density mesh. CH claims to be in her 'rose period' she said backstage, which comes as no surprise after she recently launched her new fragrance 'born in rose'. Her palette of blush, lavender, lilac and white welcomes the invigorating season and the transparency of organza and chiffon was used sparingly, creating mystery within the sensuous collection. Shoulders were bare and flesh was exposed, and for a treat for the less tame, black pleated chiffon was carefully embroided with sequins - creating a racier collection for the youth. Surprisingly to many, CH was eager to avoid prints this season as she's featured them a lot in the past, modern minded, but the rose print slip dress was still beautiful.











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15 September 2015

RAG & BONE SPRING 2016 READY TO WEAR

Marcus Wainright and David Neville's Rag & Bone collection yesterday evening was showcased in St. Ann's warehouse in Brooklyn, which brought a personal aspect to the designers collection, and clearly the change of scenery had no impact in the material sense, as the pictures of the collection appear identical as of those in a professional New York showcase. The slip dresses, sneakers, and chunky black knits paired with hoop earrings are said to have been inspired by the Notting Hill carnival in 90's London. However, the collection also channelled army vibes with cargo pants and anoraks, bringing back the masculine/feminine trait that was created post world war two, when women would wear more masculine clothing for equality and practicality. For example, silk slip dresses with spindly straps and chunky knitted tube dresses are topped with masculine bomber jackets. Models donned flight suits with The Pilot tote and Flight satchel which were inspired by a parachute in the Rag & Bone office, along with the anoraks.







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