21 September 2015

DKNY SPRING 2016 READY-TO-WEAR

Two words - monochrome and suits. Hosted in the Westfield World Trade Centre West Gallery, Donna Karan watched dependably from the audience, after giving up her role as founder of one of the greatest fashion houses in history to Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne. Aware of their need to fill the shoes of a woman with such great respect, the Public School graduates delivered with a certain level of sophistication. Tailoring was of the essence, the first look perfectly summed up the modern collection that would follow - a classy pin stripe suit jacket over a crisp white playsuit. The elegant legginess toned out the masculine vibe from the mens classic wardrobe staple. The pair said: "We wanted to explore the idea of the working woman, specifically in the setting of the city. Starting with a hyper contextualized idea of tailoring in the workplace but stripping it down and pairing it with the ease of classic American sportswear." And they couldn't have said it better. The focus was tailoring, but the construction and manipulation of the garments was what really made the collection what it was. The bottom half of a jacket or a pin-striped knit was sliced off to reveal beautiful a crisp white fabric. The collection was perfect for the modernised working woman in the city.








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16 September 2015

CAROLINA HERRERA SPRING 2016 READY TO WEAR

To my delight Carolina Herrera's Spring 2016 collection rightfully claimed it's place in the Frick museum's garden room on the Upper East Side - making it the first collection to ever be showcased among many artistic masterpieces. The modern minded designer has embraced high tech materials stitched onto transparent mesh, creating a whole new meaning of discreet, but other pieces sported a higher density mesh. CH claims to be in her 'rose period' she said backstage, which comes as no surprise after she recently launched her new fragrance 'born in rose'. Her palette of blush, lavender, lilac and white welcomes the invigorating season and the transparency of organza and chiffon was used sparingly, creating mystery within the sensuous collection. Shoulders were bare and flesh was exposed, and for a treat for the less tame, black pleated chiffon was carefully embroided with sequins - creating a racier collection for the youth. Surprisingly to many, CH was eager to avoid prints this season as she's featured them a lot in the past, modern minded, but the rose print slip dress was still beautiful.











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15 September 2015

RAG & BONE SPRING 2016 READY TO WEAR

Marcus Wainright and David Neville's Rag & Bone collection yesterday evening was showcased in St. Ann's warehouse in Brooklyn, which brought a personal aspect to the designers collection, and clearly the change of scenery had no impact in the material sense, as the pictures of the collection appear identical as of those in a professional New York showcase. The slip dresses, sneakers, and chunky black knits paired with hoop earrings are said to have been inspired by the Notting Hill carnival in 90's London. However, the collection also channelled army vibes with cargo pants and anoraks, bringing back the masculine/feminine trait that was created post world war two, when women would wear more masculine clothing for equality and practicality. For example, silk slip dresses with spindly straps and chunky knitted tube dresses are topped with masculine bomber jackets. Models donned flight suits with The Pilot tote and Flight satchel which were inspired by a parachute in the Rag & Bone office, along with the anoraks.







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GIVENCHY RESORT 2016

The Givenchy Resort collection is a surprising innovation following Riccardo Tisci's Victorian-inspired fall 2015 collection, furthermore, denim has not been used by Tisci in his 10 years at Givenchy. While the colour palette focused on olive, tan, white and blue denim - the collection flounced ruffles, pleats and leopard prints to welcome the youthful season. Skirts with ruffled hemlines and coats with boxy shoulders prove this collection is not for the tame, however, his celebrity friend's can most definitely be envisioned wearing his functional pieces in warmer climates. His evening pieces were more body conscious, the shapes appreciate more rounded contours, with ruched shoulder lines, thigh-high splits and carefully placed pleats.






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