Material World Debate

I recently attended the Material World Panel debate at Selfridges in Manchester on the 9^th of March. The event was part of the #MaterialWorld campaign.

The event was hosted by Katie Popperwell, and welcomed an experienced panel to “challenge the 'can't do' attitude of fashion sustainability”, and asking whether it's down to a younger generation to force fashion to clean up its act. 

The panel included: i-D magazine’s deputy editor Lynette Nylander, Illustrated People’s Phoebe Lettice Thompson, rising fashion star John Alexander Skelton and Sophie Slater, co-founder of ethical fashion brand Birdsong. 

When considering manufacturing, sourcing and selling products a lot of companies in the fashion industry are ‘cutting corners’ and it’s creating bigger problems for the workers and the environment. Brands need to challenge the concept that sustainability is bad design. The panel made a point that clothing and materials are the second biggest source of waste in the world after oil and that all of our discarded materials are going to waste.

Did you know that if you return an item that you bought online via the post, most brands incinerate or destroy the garment instead of reselling or discounting the item? Fast fashion and high demand is destroying sustainability. Did you know that when Alessandro Michele took over as creative director of Gucci he burned 3 warehouses worth of old Gucci stock? Instead of tarnishing the brand’s reputation of being exclusive and selling the stock at a discounted price.

Fast fashion and our desire for a ‘bargain’ means that we are buying clothes faster than we can toss them out. Do you ever stop to question, why is this item so cheap? Or, who made my clothes? Take a look at #whomademyclothes, a hashtag created in aid of Fashion Revolution Week 24^th-30^th April which happens at the time of the Rana Plaza factory collapse, where 1,138 people were killed and many more injured on 24th April 2013 for the sake of your fashion. Fashion Revolution is a global movement calling for greater transparency, sustainability and ethics in the fashion industry. “We use this week to encourage millions of people to ask brands ‘Who made my clothes’ and demand greater transparency in the fashion supply chain.”

http://fashionrevolution.org/

Alexander Skelton, who’s sustainable collection was recently showcased in the New York Times said, “ethical is beautiful and that attitude needs to be changed from a school level. It needs to be educated within all subjects however not enough of our current generation of teachers are educated in sustainability.”

It was brought up by an audience member asking if social media has contributed to the ignorance towards sustainability. Phoebe Lettice immediately agrees, commenting on that fact that Instagram is a huge contributor to this. We all seek approval from our Instagram followers whether we’d like to admit it or not, we’d all like our Instagram to look like someone else’s. Outfit of the day pictures are trashing sustainable shopping, why? Well who wants to be photographed in the same item of clothing several times? Despite the fact that it might be your favourite shirt and you’ve worn it to death, we don’t want our followers to know that, we want them to know that we have an effortlessly put together wardrobe of endless garments.

So what about students? What about the millennials of today? What can we do to make our fashion more sustainable? In order to be sustainable you need to rethink your attitude to trends. It may be more affordable to have fast fashion, but in the words of Vivienne Westwood, “Buy less, buy smarter” is easily applied to your shopping habits. Buy from sustainable companies and buy items that are staple wardrobe pieces that you can wear again and again. Not to your tastes? Shopping from charity shops is a great way to become sustainable, even remarking your clothes can be fun. Check out @goodstockshop on Oxford Road in Manchester, a vibrant and stylish charity shop that students love to donate their clothes to, many still with the tags on. Reformation is a great brand that makes killer clothes that don’t kill the environment. It’s always better to start somewhere, every person makes a difference when it comes to making our planet a more sustainable environment.

SPIKE JONZE KENZO PERFUME

Spike Jonze has directed the latest perfume advert for Kenzo World. The ad evokes a feeling that all of us have felt at one time or another, a feeling of mind-numbing boredom from listening to a certain individual in a formal situation. The campaign for the fragrance is clearly inspired by his work from a number of years ago for Fatboy Slim's 'Weapon of Choice'. The 4-minute ad has caused a riot in the industry, from the colour of the dress to the style of her shoe, everyone wants to talk about this. It has also successfully combined the media, fashion and the music industry together by including a piece of each in the video, and now music producers are talking about a fashion brand named Kenzo - something they thought they would never do. This is a perfect example of fashion promotion, with no doubt thousands of hours of work going into producing it, but it was totally worth it.

ANYA HINDMARCH LFW SS17 RTW

Anya Hindmarch is well known to put a witty spin on her collections and that’s exactly what she did on Sunday morning at the Royal Horticultural Halls near Victoria Station. A space age colosseum formed her catwalk for her show ‘Circulus’ that was inspired by ‘close encounters of the third kind’. The models emerged from the UFO like structure wearing clean cut neoprene coats. “This season I’ve been preoccupied by the relationship between geometry and art” said Hindmarch backstage. The vast amount of tailoring and oversized pockets was proof of that. A palette of sorbet pastels was apparent on the array of duster coats that formed the collection. They varied in shape, some sleeveless, some clichéd at the waist with knotted belts, some with cut out shoulders and ruffled sleeves. Figure hugging and brightly coloured neoprene swimsuits made an appearance, paired with Anya’s trademarked silk scarves. Intricate leather geometrics adorned every item in the collection which was inspired by her circular vision. Each and every model wore thick pieces of fabric wrapped around their neck and head over slicked back ponytails, giving a modern twist on the classic alice band. Oversized boxy totes and pointed slides were paired with each longline duster coat on the catwalk – Hindmarch was overheard saying “the bags were inspired by how beautiful mathematics looks on the page” and if this collection is as much of a success as her previous one, the maths looks good.

LONDON - ASOS HEADQUARTERS

Recently, I had the amazing opportunity to visit the ASOS Headquarters in Camden, London. The visit included a one-on-one with ASOS staff, including those who are in charge of ASOS Marketplace, who gave us tips on how to make it in the fashion world, and how to start your own boutique on ASOS Marketplace, and what that entails. We were also fortunate enough to have a tour of ASOS Head Office, which included meeting the models (!!!) viewing the catwalk, the wardrobe, hair and makeup, and what happens once the item is online. Everything was rapid and constant. Each studio shoots over 44 garments a day, totaling up to around 400 garments being uploaded onto the site per day! Planning and productivity was essential. It was a truly amazing experience being able to be up close and personal with the products themselves.

HOW TO BE A SAVVY SHOPPER

Being a savvy shopper is more than finding bargains in the sales, it's about making the most of your money and knowing what it is you really want and really need. It's also about finding your own individual style, don't replicate someone else's - be inspired by it.

The most important thing to being a savvy shopper is 'know thy-self'. Only ever buy something that you feel confident in, otherwise you won't wear it. Always picture what you already have, will this item go with more than 5 items in your wardrobe right now? Imagine where, when and how you will wear it. Always be open to new trends, but only buy something that you love - aim for a multi-functional wardrobe that reflects your personal taste and unique lifestyle.

The most important tip is to clear out your wardrobe at least every 6 months, preferably seasonally. You're definitely not going to be wearing a turtleneck in summer or denim shorts in winter, so clear out your wardrobe and ask yourself, can I wear this again next year? If yes, put it away, but don't forget about it. This technique helps you identify what you have for this season, what you need, and most importantly, your wardrobe staples.

Basics and staples are essentially what make your wardrobe, a good pair of flattering denim jeans and a warm coat are items that will make up your everyday outfits. Basics such as camisoles are perfect for layering, especially during the winter. Core colours such as black or white are your best option.

The art of mixing high and low price points is one of the best qualities of a savvy shopper. Search for pieces that look expensive without compromising on quality - sometimes an investment is worth it. You know what it will be because you will love it, however, the best items to invest in tend to be handbags, coats, shoes and jeans.

Always be aware of current fashion trends- the 70's are huge right now. The best way to do this is to sign up to emails from your favorite stores, this way you will also get to know about promotions first.

Now you know what it is that you want, need and love - you need to make a list. Look online before you go shopping for each item, so you know which ones you like the most without impulse buying the first item you see, as you would in-store. Remember to only buy what you love.

Now for the best part, you've bought your new items and know your whole wardrobe. Take time to mix and match your outfits, add shoes, coats, bags and accessories - decide when and where you will wear these outfits. Keep practicality in mind. Create as many outfits as possible by changing one or two items, this process will also help identify any holes in your wardrobe, add those items to your next wishlist.

By following these simple steps and techniques, you will develop your own sense of style and find you have a little more extra cash to get things that you really do need.

GIVENCHY SS16 READY-TO-WEAR NYFW

On the 14th anniversary of 9/11, Ricardo Tisci brought his Givenchy collection to New York. The runway set was created using debris and recycled materials, so it could be assembled and demolished with no waste. The designs were 'sensitive' and 'delicate'. Understandably, creating a contrast of both spring/summer seasonal appropriation and respect for a such a tragic moment in time, was never going to be a simple task. The collection was a completely monochrome palette, with almost every garment featuring a different weave of lace. It included a mix of womenswear, menswear and an innovative approach to haute couture - the use of media within the collection was mainly use of lace and leather. The leather hardened the soft exterior of the delicate lace, a good example being leather leggings under a sheer lace ball gown. The womenswear was a beautiful combination of modern tailoring with a sheer mesh, to add a hint of seductiveness to the garments.

CHANEL SPRING SUMMER 2016 READY TO WEAR

Fashion is famous for it's global destinations, and Chanel makes no exception - from Moscow to Seoul to Salzburg to Dallas; the house has presented a show in all of them. It was the season of travel and technology at Chanel last week in Paris. The show was opened by Edie Campbell rushing to his no doubt glamourous destination down Chanel's runway in a checkered tweed jumpsuit whilst rolling a black Chanel suitcase. Chanel branded luggage trollies, smiling staff behind check-in desks, transformed Paris' Grand Palais into it's very own exclusive Chanel airport. 'A first class affair'. Classic Chanel trademarked tweed skirt suits were hurried down the catwalk by Karl's line up of classic beauties. Some were pencil skirts, dropped shoulder jackets and three quarter sleeve jackets, others donned trackpants, knitted skirts and sweater ensembles. Airport fashion has always been a desirable look, however the hustle and bustle of an airport makes the reality of that very unrealistic, but these outfits would most definitely get these models a one way ticket to first class, as Karl said, 'it's how it should be!'. There was lots of layering within the collection, which has always been one of the most important tips for airport fashion, that, and not being able to fit a weeks worth of clothes into your luggage. Come fly with Chanel? Yes please.

PRADA SPRING 2016 READY TO WEAR

Modern retro-chic. Like many of the collections I've been posting about, the collection featured many conservative pieces including the power suit, boxy jackets and drop waist dresses, however they all had a modern take on them. Art-deco/space-age vibes were inserted in these clean everyday aesthetics. The models had robotic metallic lips and scooped back futuristic cosmic 'do's' with squared off and slicked down sides. Yokes and bibs on dresses were replaced by plastic fishnet disks, maximalism is back.

ALEXA CHUNG IT BOOK REVIEW

I've been looking forward to getting my hands on Alexa Chung's book IT for quite some time and shamefully, I choose books by their covers and the faded pink binding made it irresistible to me. Unfortunately, it didn't quite live up to IT. Me personally, I can't seem to relate to Alexa in any way but I adore her effortless chic ways and her IT girl status makes her probably one of the coolest fashion icons in history. The best way to describe this book is that it's an autobiography/diary with the occasional 'how to look effortless and it actually be effortless' makeup/styling tips that Alexa 'spontaneously' threw together into a book in one day. It's cool and also totally uncool. The book includes a lot of random drawings that represent that grungy/dark and dirty side to her. I read it overnight, but there's something strangely alluring about it that makes me want to read it again. I love the cover, but the content just isn't to my taste, but if I were to write a book it would most definitely be pink too.

BURBERRY PRORSUM SPRING 2016 READY TO WEAR

FUNCTIONREGALIA is the name of the Burberry prorsum show that took place in Hyde Park during London Fashion Week. Burberry upped their tech game this season by releasing almost the entirety of the collection by 7pm the previous night on an app no other than Snapchat. The nation was blessed with watching the beautiful collection from the comfort of their own home on one of the most popular social media platforms. Sephora streamed the first ever live beauty tutorial on YouTube. Feminine shapes took to the catwalk gliding past familiar front row faces, including Burberry girls, Kate Moss, Cara Delevigne, Suki Waterhouse and Jourdan Dunn. Modern urbanities will be craving those oyster silk slip dresses suspended by spindly spaghetti straps with the famous Burberry trench coats casually thrown over. The trench coat will take a girl anywhere, even through to autumn with a trusty knit underneath. The collection showcased an array of pretty dresses like the intricate and flirty sheer mini's in black, yellow and mint.

TOPSHOP UNIQUE SPRING 2016 READY TO WEAR

Topshop Unique is one of LFW main highlights and with the likes of Cara Delevigne, Bella Hadid and Zayn Malik in the frow, along with a live stream to Topshop.com, the show was sure to be a hit. Topshop proved that manish suits and crucial styling are key, a skinny belt tied around some trusty tailoring and big 80's hair will not go unnoticed. The show featured a palette of pastels, rich red and monochrome ensemble's. Frilly blouses and flowing tea dresses with thigh high splits advertised feisty leopard print and 60's polka dots. They were topped with bomber jackets and chunky knits, red leather skirts and a pink leather coat also made an appearance. Fluffy scarves and shoes, and even daytime pyjamas inspired by the Japanese were flaunted, although they are trends most likely to not be leaving the catwalk.

DKNY SPRING 2016 READY-TO-WEAR

Two words - monochrome and suits. Hosted in the Westfield World Trade Centre West Gallery, Donna Karan watched dependably from the audience, after giving up her role as founder of one of the greatest fashion houses in history to Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne. Aware of their need to fill the shoes of a woman with such great respect, the Public School graduates delivered with a certain level of sophistication. Tailoring was of the essence, the first look perfectly summed up the modern collection that would follow - a classy pin stripe suit jacket over a crisp white playsuit. The elegant legginess toned out the masculine vibe from the mens classic wardrobe staple. The pair said: "We wanted to explore the idea of the working woman, specifically in the setting of the city. Starting with a hyper contextualized idea of tailoring in the workplace but stripping it down and pairing it with the ease of classic American sportswear." And they couldn't have said it better. The focus was tailoring, but the construction and manipulation of the garments was what really made the collection what it was. The bottom half of a jacket or a pin-striped knit was sliced off to reveal beautiful a crisp white fabric. The collection was perfect for the modernised working woman in the city.